Tulum - a winter escape

February 14th 2022, when most couples are out wining and dining, Mr Poachie and I were on a flight to Mexico with his kids! This was a trip that had been planned and rescheduled numerous times due to covid so until we were actually sat on the plane the trip didn't feel like it was ever going to happen! 

But oh boy, what a trip it was.

After the 11 hour flight, we headed to our airbnb in Tulum central which was about an hours drive from Cancun airport. This area is clearly up and coming, there was construction everywhere and if you are planning on staying here, I would say you need to hire a car. The layout is gridded so its easy to navigate but the roads are pot holes and dusty plus I wasn't sure I would have felt safe at night. We got taxis everywhere for this part of the trip, and whilst the taxis in the centre are FAR cheaper than in Tulum beach, it still added up. 

Lots of people cycle here but we just weren't sure it was a good option for us, the roads are busy, Tulum centre is basically a long highway lined with shops and places to eat. Plus the cenotes we wanted to visit were far away. Do your research, I'm sure you will find the best options for what you want to do. And you are spoilt for choice!

We spent the first three days of the trip visiting different cenotes (large open top caves you can jump and swim in). I hadn't experienced anything like this before and whilst I was scared to jump in, it is a lot of fun!

Tulum has become an influencer haven and you will notice this, people taking photos and what looks like full on photoshoots in some places! If this is what you are here for, and I cant blame you, you will need to get up early to get that shot without the crowds.

I had been told that Tulum was ridiculously expensive so I did a lot of research to make sure we weren't going to be fleeced each time, and we found a ton of places that the locals ate at that served delicious food and was cheap. They might not have been the most insta worthy but when the food is good and your bank account doesn't diminish after one drink, then its worth it.

After a few days and nights exploring Tulum central and the surrounding cenotes, we were ready for a change of scenery.

Tulum beach is about 20 minutes drive from the centre and feels like a completely different place. The hotels are fancy, its got a hippie vibe, and the beach takes centre stage. Whilst I would say its gorgeous, the sea is rough, there is a lot of seaweed and there are still massive lorries and traffic on the road running parralel to the beach.

That being said, our hotel was amazing. We had booked in at the Papaya Playa project which was a splurge but this was our first holiday since before the pandemic and the first 'family' trip I had been on with Mr Poachies kids, so this was a big deal!

The hotel was beautiful, it had its own beach area with day beds and our villa had a roof top pool. We felt seriously spoilt. I loved being in the jungle surrounded by all of the trees and nature.

It took me a while for everything to stop feeling so surreal. I took travel for granted and would think nothing of it but then after the pandemic I was left open mouthed that you can get on a plane and then land thousands of miles away in another beautiful place that I had seen so many pictures of and was desperate to visit.

Friends of mine had visited Tulum a few years ago and said it wasn't the most amazing place despite what you see online. This didn't sway me but now I have been, I understand what they were saying. 

There are places which are rough, there are nicer places to visit and it was ludicrously expensive in some areas (which we avoided). We only ate at restaurants that felt like backpackers or locals went to. We didn't want to go to posh places that served Octopus.

We were only here for a week and I think I spent £700 on food, drink and taxis. Which I think is fine. The cocktail bill from our hotel was eye watering but I embraced the moment and didn't take any part of it for granted. 

If you are in the mood for pizza head to Pizzeria manglar which was wallet friendly and in a sweet courtyard with decent wines on the menu.

As per usual I took 100's of photos and I haven't really placed them in order but what I will do is write a list of the cenotes and restaurants we visited if that's helpful.

One piece of advice I would give is to avoid getting a taxi from one end of the beach to the other, its one long road but for a short trip from our hotel to the 'follow your dream' sign, cost $20 such a rip off! we walked the way back which took around 40 minutes.

We had intended to hire bikes down at the beach but the bike hire place was closed and our hotel said that their bikes weren't good enough to give out, which we thought was annoying and odd?! The road isn't in a good way so perhaps they were worried about liability but then don't have bikes in the first place?

Our hotel also put on a full moon party which I think was free to us as guests but you had to load money onto a voucher/wrist band and again a cocktail was around $20 so we just felt it wasn't worth it and left after one drink and went to bed with ear plugs in!

If you are hoping to take a photo like the one of me above at the Ahau hotel, this has been moved from the roadside and you need to pay and queue to get in.

A visit to the mojito bar in Tulum centre was fun if you like margheritas! 

The Papaya playa beach hotel allowed day guests and I thought it was great, the beach menu was expensive and service could be slow as it was so busy. The food was ok.

Our favourite place for breakfast was called Potheads, just down the road from Papaya Playa, really friendly waiters, extensive yummy menu options and purse friendly.

Gran cenote was quite far away but a popular site to visit. There are caves with turtles in and you are given life jackets and goggles. Showering is a must before you enter the caves.

We also liked Matoes just along from Potheads for dinner. Lots of burritos and the most amazing chicken wraps. The atmosphere was fun and it was budget friendly.

Burrito Amor in the centre was a good place to eat, cute settings, lovely food and wont break the bank.

We visited cenote calavera which was fun, lots of diving and there is a drinks bar. They had seats dotted about so if you wanted to, you could chill here for an afternoon watching everyone jumping in the cenotes.

To be honest, there are so many places to visit but we enjoyed everywhere we went, it just takes a little research and it obviously depends on what you are after. Tulum is popular for hippie clubbing types and hen parties etc. I think Americans visit here a lot for the weekend, I mean, why not!